Showing posts with label Photography Blog. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Photography Blog. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

FUJIFILM X-E2: My Review

It has been ages since my last blogging about photography but this new babe I acquired recently is worth to blog about it. The search of a perfect travel camera might just end here… The FUJIFILM X-E2. I always have a craze over digital camera with retro touch. This is how I get hooked into micro four third by OLYMPUS OM-D E-M5. However, the image quality of micro four third system is close but not as good as my trustworthy NIKON D300s due to the smaller image sensor. I have tried FUJIFILM X-E1 more than two years ago in an exhibition and the auto focusing really puts me off : it struggled to hunt in low light and bright condition and took a real long time to focus.

Fast forward to the present, the launched of the new FUJIFILM X-E2 with the new X-Trans Image sensor and second generation of image processor EXR Processor II promises a faster focusing speed, better image quality and a whopping 60 plus changes from its predecessor. It’s impressive right?



 THE SPECIFICATION

16MP X-Trans CMOS II Sensor (APS-C)
ISO 200-6400 expanded 100-25600
EXR Processor II
Lens Modulation Optimizer
2.36M Dot OLED EVF
3” 1.04M Dot LCD (Fixed & Non Touch Screen)
Top Analogue Shutter Speed and Exposure Compensation Dial
Digital Spilt Image & Peak Focusing for Manual Focus
Built-in WIFI for image transfer

And more… I’m just naming a few interesting or important features. You can find out more from FUJIFILM website.

 
THE FEEL
 
Oh boy! Once I grab and hold the camera, it feels so right with my small palm and short fingers. The 18mm-55mm F2.8-4 kit lens matches the body not like the smaller OLYMPUS OM-D E-M5 pair with the awful looking long slim 12-50mm F3.5-6.3 kit lens.  I have to specifically mentioned here the kit lens come with XE-2 is one hell of a fantastic kit lens I’ve ever own before. The build quality of this kit lens is excellent; the image produce is sharp and with F2.8-4.0 aperture setting it is bokehlicious!

This is my first FUJILM X-Series camera but I have no problem with the operation and handling. The setup and shooting menu is simple and easy to operate and just it just took me few hours to familiarize. Although the M,A,S and P mode at the beginning will be a bit confusing cause not like DSLR with dedicate mode dial to set but X-E2 with button at the lens and shutter speed dial to set, you will be fine after understand the setting combination.

The size is perfect for me, much smaller than my NIKON D300s and slightly bigger than my OLYMPUS OM-D E-M5. This size is ideal for my travelling while extra luggage space is always come with a price. The FUJIFILM X-E2 scored a distinction by saving spaces of your luggage but does not sacrifice the quality of image at all. This is why I mentioned earlier that the search for my perfect travel camera is over.


MY RECOMMENDATION

During my teens, I occasionally get to shoot photos with an analogue FUJIFILM camera owned by my elder brother. The color and tonal quality produce by the Fuji Film was so vibrant, realistic and nice that I can never forget till today. The Film Simulation featured in FUJIFILM X-Series camera promise to reproduce such color and tonal quality image and I would say they did a real fine job. So, for us the PREVIA, ASTIA and VELVIA lovers, how can you resist the temptation to own a FUJIFILM X-Series camera?

 Having written so many good things about X-E2, needless to say, there are also some shortcoming of the camera or rather the system. There are not much choices for lens, about 10 available thus far and no third party lens except 2 from Carl Zeiss and the price is exorbitant! The focusing speed is fast but could be faster and with a touch screen control will make it even better.

 So if you are a traveler, a retro style camera lover who likes the color and tonal quality images of FUJIFILM, dislike big and bulky DSLR but demands good image quality, this FUJIFILM X-E2 might be the camera you are looking for and those who has a bigger budget can consider the newly launched FUJIFILM X-T1. Happy shooting!
 
FUJIFILM X-E2 18-55mm F18 1/750s, ISO 200, WB Auto

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Macrography

Nikon D300s + Tamron SP60 (Manual, F/16, 1/80s, ISO 200)
Nikon D300s + Tamron SP60 (Manual, F/16, 1/80s, ISO 200)
Nikon D300s + Tamron SP60 (Manual, F/16, 1/100s, ISO 200)
Nikon D300s + Tamron SP60 (Manual, F/16, 1/80s, ISO 200)
Nikon D300s + Tamron SP60 (Manual, F18, 1/60s, ISO 200)

Monday, March 7, 2011

101 Essential DSLR Photography Tips: F8 and Be There

I have stop taking photos since I came back from my Hanoi Trip. Somehow I realized the more I know about the theory of photography, the less I am able to compose or capture a frame. I am totally lost…

Everyday I crave to have new lenses, more advance body, searching for the best setting for my camera and shooting. But the more I do, the more I am lost and confused. Today, in my quest to find more rules and guidelines, I came across this simple rule…

F8 AND BE THERE

At first, I was thinking using aperture F8 as the optimum aperture to shoot all of my photos. As I know F8 is a nice aperture with decent depth of field that makes your subject likely to be in focus and F8 is also the sweet spot of most lenses that ensure the sharpness of your photos. But wait a second, while I am right about this Aperture F8, this rule has further meanings…

The rule has two parts : ‘F8’ and ‘Be There’. The essence of this rule is ‘Be There’. It is not about having the most advance DSLR camera body, or the most expensive lenses, or knowing all the theories, the guidelines and the rules of photography. The point is you must ‘Be There’ and it is just as simple as that. Being at the right place, at the right time and clicking your shutter! Don't worry too much about the camera setting like ISO, white balance, etc. or the type of lenses you are using. Just get out there and shoot. Photography requires lots of practice and practice will surely make you photo perfect or perhaps nearly perfect.

A picture speaks a thousand words but photography can be as simple as this four words; 'F8 and Be There'. Many of us may not know who Allen Hopkins is but his quote ‘F8 and be there’ has made a huge impact on me. If you are a photo ethusiast, don’t just sit in front of your TV or hook to your computer all day long. Be there! Take your DSLR camera, regardless rain or shine, night or day and there’s always a moment out there worth to capture.

F8 and BE THERE!

I was not using F8 but I was certainly 'Be There' to capture this lovely moment 
(Nikkor 18-200mm, 1/1000sec, f/5.6, ISO 200)

Monday, November 1, 2010

NIKON D7000: My Review


Is NIKON D7000 the best DX format DSLR camera ever? I have this question since 15 September 2010, the day this model was launched. Just yesterday, I came back from a brief trip to Hanoi and with a fatigue body, I dragged myself  to KL Photofest 2010 in Mid Valley to find out the answer.

The Specification
New 16.2 MP CMOS Sensor (NIKON DX Format)
ISO 100 to 6400 (Expandable to 25600)
New 39 Focus Points
NIKON latest image-processing engine, EXPEED 2
NIKON latest 2,016-pixel RGB metering sensor (now only available in D7000)
Full HD Movies (1920 x 1080p, 24 fps)
High-speed continuous shooting at 6 fps
Twin SD Card Slots
And more… I just named a few interesting, important features and details. You can find out more from NIKON website.

The Feel
Once I grab the NIKON D7000, I have this familiar feeling... oh yes, it feels like my old NIKON D90. For me, the grip is good and it fits nicely in my small palm and short fingers. It feels tougher than NIKON D90 thanks to the magnesium alloy body and thicker rubber coating. The adoption of new Multi-CAM 4800DX Autofocus Sensor Module makes the 39 focus points work very well. The automatic focusing is fast and smooth with the NIKKOR 18-105mm kit lens. The 3 inch 921k dot LCD screen is crystal clear and crispy sharp but don’t be too happy with this because you will be disappointed when you view the photo in your computer LCD monitor.

The operation and controls is pretty much similar with NIKON D90, almost identical except NIKON D7000 has a unique Live View Switch and movie record button. Perhaps the biggest changes NIKON D7000 has is the Mode Dial. It has a second drive mode dial which is only available on higher end model like NIKON D300s, D700 and D3 series. The second drive mode dial controls the shooting frame mode, timer, ‘Quiet’ mode and mirror lock-up function.

Other interesting features in NIKON D7000 includes the new U1 and U2 setting which allows you to assign frequently used settings including ISO sensitivity and exposure compensation. Just rotate the mode dial for instant recall such preset settings. NIKON D7000 has 2 Auto White Balance setting namely AUTO1 ‘normal’ and AUTO2 ‘keep warm lighting colors’. I have tested this two AWB setting and I reckon it might solve some color cast problem especially in warmer lighting condition.

My Recommendation
Before the announcement of NIKON D7000, there were rumours that NIKON will launch a replacement of the very popular NIKON D90. In fact at this point, the new NIKON D7000 position is in between NIKON D90 and NIKON D300s. It serves a very good upgrade option for those who possess an entry level (NIKON D60, D3000, D5000) and mid range (NIKON D80, D90) DSLR camera.

So, if you are a new comer with a slightly ‘bigger’ budget and you like NIKON DSLR cameras, then NIKON D7000 is a very good choice for you. It comes with a handful of latest technology and advance features. Trust me, you won’t regret what you buy this time…
I have to admit that on the very day when NIKON D7000 was launched, I have the sudden impulse to sell my NIKON D300s in order to buy a new NIKON D7000. Based on the specification of the camera, the features available in the NIKON D7000 is so impressive and easily beat D300s in almost every aspect. But hold it NIKON D300s users out there , after I have tried several times again on the NIKON D7000, believe me your NIKON D300s is still a better camera in terms of handling and control, customization with comprehensive and detail shooting menu. Now, I will rather wait for the NIKON D300s replacement in 1st quarter of 2011. Happy shooting!

Saturday, October 9, 2010

101 Essential DSLR Photography Tips: High Dynamic Range (HDR)

It has been awhile I did not post in our blog, all due to too many public holidays in a month plus my increasing work load. Long story cut short, since there’s a request of HDR, here we go.

What is HDR? HDR stand for High Dynamic Range. Dynamic range is the difference of brightest (highlight) and darkest (shadow) part of an image and yet reveals highlight and shadow details. HDR photography involves producing image with much greater light range than it normally possible that the DSLR camera sensor able to capture. It is always close to how human eyes capture a scene and it is possible beyond it with HDR photography. HDR photography works perfectly for great contrast scenes like sunrise, sunset and scenes with bright skies and its darker surrounding subjects.

The methodology to create HDR image is fairly simple, software & post processing play a vital role here. First you must get yourself a software eg. Photoshop, Photomatix or any others HDR software and secondly, a tripod is required or recommended.

Step 1 Find a scene suitable for HDR image you want to capture and take several shots at varying exposure levels eg. -2 EV, 0 EV, +2 EV and so on. If your DSLR camera has the Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB) function, use it instead of manually varying the exposure.

Step 2 Back home in front of your computer download these images and merge it by Photoshop or Photomatix into an HDR image that reveals highlight and shadow details.

Step 3 Adjust the settings to get the result that you want; good patience is required here to achieve the desired end results. The HDR image can be from natural-looking to oil-painting feel by adjusting color balance, contrast, saturation and hue of the image to suit your personal taste.

I travelled to Siem Reap in October 2009 and was in Angkar Wat, waiting with bated breath for sunset, expecting to shoot some stunning sunset image but apparently luck was not on my side that day. The sky was dull and cloudy as well but a sudden thought popped into my mind; that maybe with the aide of HDR, I might able to produce some good images. The results proved to be very rewarding.

I used my NIKON D90 mounted on my BENRO tripod, captured three shots with the exposure value of -2 stop, 0 stop and +2 stop which I think was good enough to cover the whole light range of this scene. Below was the original images I took before processing. Not impress at all with these images right?
But after I processed with Photomatix by merging the above three images, with some fine tuning and adjustments, below was the result I got and this is why I love HDR!

Monday, September 13, 2010

101 Essential DSLR Photography Tips: Bokeh

One day, a friend of mine was terribly excited and told me he managed to capture blur background photo with his newly purchased DSLR camera and with this, he complimented himself as an outstanding photographer!

That brought back a long lost memory that many years ago when I just started to learn photography, I kept pestering my brother to teach me this blur background technique. When I finally managed to capture it, I felt excited too. Last night, my wife asked me the same question again, so because of her request, I penned this down.

For layman, we called it blur background or more specifically, we call it out-of-focus area but it has a photography term called Bokeh. Bokeh was believed to be originated from Japanese word ‘boke’, which mean ‘blur’ or ‘haze’. Okay, I’m not gonna discuss further about Bokeh because if I do, there is every possibility that I could stretch it to 10 pages long. Right now, we are more interested to know how to create ‘bokeh’.

Before I share with you the technique, we must first understand Depth of Field (DOF) and its relationship to Bokeh. DOF refers to area of an image is in focus whereas the appearance of the light that is seen within the blur part of the photograph is Bokeh. DOF and Bokeh work together to produce a photograph with main subject that stands out from the background without distraction.

To produce these kinds of photos is not a rocket science technology, just follow these camera settings and set up should be able to assist you to produce a relatively decent ‘blur background photo’.

1. Aperture
Open up your aperture, simply mean use the smallest F number available in your lens like F1.8, F2.8, F3.6 etc.

2. Focal Length
Preferably use a telephoto lens with a focal length 85mm and above. If you use a zoom lens, zoom to the longest telephoto end eg. if you are using a 18-200mm lens, used 200mm end instead.

3. Distance to Subject
Physically move in as close as possible to the subject that your lens allow you to be, yet at the same time the lens can still focus properly.

4. Distance of the Subject to Background
Find a background not too close to your subject so that you can isolate them nicely.

The below photograph of mine is an example where I used my TAMRON AF 18-270mm F3.6-6.3 lens to capture a butterfly during my hiking trip last year in Maxwell Hill, Taiping. I used F6.3 at 270mm end and move as close as possible to subject (in this case is the butterfly) and found some green bushes as background.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

101 Essential DSLR Photography Tips: Bracketing

I am halfway writting my Basic DSLR Photography (Part III): Shooting Mode and out of a sudden, I received a request to talk about bracketing function of DSLR camera. Believe me, I am more than happy to assist in this topic.

What is Bracketing? Bracketing is a technique to take a series of shots of the same scene using different camera setting. Camera setting that can be bracketed includes exposure, ISO, white balance, flash and even focus. Nowadays we always refer bracketing as a camera function; a function that your DSLR camera will fire a series of shots automatically produced images (usually 3, 5, 7 or 9 images) with various settings you desired to bracket.

Bracketing can be done manually too but it is tedious. The whole idea of bracketing is for you to choose the best from the series of shots you have just taken. A long time ago before the digital era, we used film to capture light and took us days to develope the film before you could see the actual photos and result. You will miss a great scene due to mistake, misjudgement or metering in your camera not doing a good job. Bracketing becomes a savior here so that you will have a series of shots with different exposure setting eg. -2EV, -1EV, 0EV, +1EV and +2EV for your selection.

However, today just a blink of eye after clicking your shutter, we can ‘chimping’ the image you have just taken through DSLR camera’s LCD screen to check result and retake if not satisfied. That’s why I can tell you that the bracketing function is not as important as those day in film era.

For NIKON DSLR cameras, Auto Bracketing function is only available for their mid and higher end model such as D90, D300s. It is limited to 3 shots per bracketing for D90 while 9 shots for D300s. You can’t find it in entry level model like D60, D3000 but for the fortunate CANON users, it is available even for their entry level model ie. 1000D. I'm a strong supporter of NIKON but I do hope NIKON will be more generous in their future models.

For some bracketing, you have to do it manually like focus bracketing. Some however, advices to do it automatically like ISO & White Balance but subject to your DSLR camera capability. Some can do it either auto or manual like exposure bracketing. As for me, I hardly use the Auto Bracketing function for exposure but opt for exposure compensation for my shooting and check after each shot through my DSLR camera‘s LCD screen until I am satisfied with it. This is what I call manual bracketing and I find this much easier and simpler as compare to Auto Bracketing function.

Auto Bracketing comes in handy for me when I want to produce a HDR (High Dynamic Range) image. Today, with photo editing software like Photoshop and Photomatix, you can combine a series of different exposures shots to assemble a single image with huge brightness range. The below image is the result I combined 3 frames with -2EV, 0EV & +2EV exposure bracketing. This post is about bracketing, so I will talk about HDR in my future post or if there is a request.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Basic DSLR Photography (Part II): Metering

Most articles in this blog were written by my wife and I just managed to write 3 articles to date. I am a very talkative person but a bad writer; just can’t translate what's in my mind into writing. Today however, I happen to read two comments, one each in two of my photography articles. I am delighted to know that someone out there, somewhere and somehow found my articles enlightening and helpful, so this further motivates me to embark on the Part II of my Basic DSLR Photography. Here we go…

We now have some understanding on the Exposure Triangle; knowing what is ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture and how important they relate to photography. So what's next?

METERING
Nothing is more important than the brain behind your DSLR camera, the Metering. Metering is the way your DSLR camera determines exposure or how it measures light. It will tell you what is the correct exposure (but not always the ideal one) for a scene you want to capture by giving a set of exposure combination ie. shutter speed and aperture based on a preset ISO speed.

Most of the DSLR camera today is equip with at least 3 metering options namely matrix, center-weighted and spot metering which varies in performance and accuracy under different light condition. Different camera manufacturer have different terms and symbols but generally they all work the same. Since I am a NIKON user, I will explain using NIKON terms and symbols so, non Nikonians, please pardon me ya…

Matrix Metering

This is the default DSLR camera’s metering setting, most commonly used and recommended in most situations. How matrix metering works is by dividing the scene you capture into multiple zones, analyze each zone and evaluate by comparing these data with a database of thousands of pictures inside DSLR camera for exposure calculation. I set my DSLR camera metering to matrix most of the time and use mostly when I do my landscape photography. For a beginner, lock on to this metering option and you won’t go wrong until the day you find yourself in some tricky and high contrast lighting situations.

Centre-Weighted

As indicated by its name center-weighted, this metering option concentrate towards the centre part of the scene, ignoring the corner. It is handy in high contrast, back light scene and classic for portrait photography. Use this metering option when your subject is relatively large and dominates the middle part of the frame. For example, if you want to portrait a beautiful fair complexion model with the sun behind her, this metering option lets you correctly expose the middle headshot. If you use matrix metering in this situation, most probably your fair complexion model will have a charcoal face due to underexpose and she will definitely bash you up for this!!
Spot Metering

At the beginning, I too was confused on the difference between center-weighted and spot metering and I think it was largely due to the misleading symbols. Both work similarly but for spot metering it measures only a very small area of the frame (about 1%-5% of the viewfinder, according to WIKIPEDIA) and evaluates the exposure surrounding your focus point only. I repeat… surrounding your focus point only. So that means it measures the exposure wherever your focus point is and is not limited in the center of frame like center-weighted metering. It is very useful for those camera like NIKON D300s with 51 focus points but not with NIKON D60 with just only 3 focus point. No wonder I couldn't understand when I was using my D60 at that time until I obtained my D300s.

Having written this much , it's about time to put our theory into practice. So what are you waiting for? Grab your DSLR camera and get out to capture some light!

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Basic DSLR Photography (Part I): Exposure Triangle

When I spoke to a good friend of mine recently who had just purchased a DSLR, I found out that lot of people have a wrong perception towards DSLR. Most of the people will think that with DSLR, they are able to capture better and sharper photos compare to compact camera.

Well, that can be a right or wrong kind of thing. Of course with better quality optical lens and larger image sensor, DSLR is able to produce good quality & sharper photos but is not always true. We must first understand the basic of photography before we can actually produce better and sharper photos. So what is the basic?

Photography is all about light; if there is no light, there will be no photography and here, we are talking about exposure. Just remember the Exposure Triangle and I call it the Golden Triangle of Photography, which consists of three elements ie. ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture.
By bringing all these three elements together, we will have an exposure combination. Changing in any one of these elements in the combination will result in either increase or decrease the remaining two. Sounds confusing or rather complicated right? Try to understand the following definition and it will help you to understand what I’ve just said.

ISO
ISO, pronouced as “I-S-O” not “I-So” is the sensitivity of your DSLR image sensor to light. ISO is measured in numbers that is 100, 200, 400… 1600, etc. It simply means that ISO 200 is twice as sensitive as compare to ISO 100 and so on and so forth. Lower ISO will produce finer or smoother grain in photograph and higher ISO will increase noise in your photo. Just remember to always keep to the lowest number as possible in your photo shooting so that you can produce a finer and noise free photo.

Shutter Speed
Shutter Speed which measures in second (s), for example 30s, 15s, 10s, 5s, 1s, 1/10s, 1/60s… 1/4000s, is the amount of time your camera shutter is open and determine the length of time your DSLR image sensor exposed to light. Remember in most cases, use shutter speed faster than 1/60s to avoid camera shake that produce blur photo. It is very difficult for a beginner to handheld and shoot below 1/60s without tripod. I personally can only handle up to 1/30s (moreover with the aid of VR, the vibration reduction from NIKON) so prepare to use tripod if you want to use shutter speed lower than that. Yes, I know it is troublesome but isn’t taking sharp photo is what you want?

Aperture
Aperture is the size of opening in the lens and it is measured in ‘f-stop’, for example f/1.8, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8… f/22, etc. Beginner always confused this f number and the tricky part is they are opposite; the smaller the f number, the bigger the size of opening in the lens and vice versa. Why it is so? Just because f number is a fraction, let’s refresh back to some basic mathematic formula and calculation:

The f number, N and is given by
where f is the focal length and D is the diameter of the lens opening.

Get it? Yes? No? Who cares? Me ain’t no mathematician and since we are talking about photography here, let’s just forget the formula. Instead, memorize this… the smaller the f number, the bigger the lens opening and it allows more light enter through the lens; the bigger the f number, the smaller the lens opening and it allows less light enter through the lens. Wonderfully simple right?

Having written this much, I came to a realization that there are plenty of basic DSLR photography I wanna talk about. Hence, I think I’ll break it into few parts. Hope you all enjoy my post and till then!

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Easy Step by Step DSLR Camera Buying Guide

Recently, when I was doing my window shopping at major shopping centers in Klang Valley, I have discovered that a lot of people are using Digital Single Reflex Lenses (DSLR) camera rather than compact camera. DSLR camera is becoming more and more common and I believed this phenomenon is mainly due to the fact that price has come down tremendously for past 3 years. This luxury and expensive DSLR camera in the past could only be afford by professionals, it has now become affordable to us, hobbyist.

Many of my friends are aware that I am very into photography now (or rather photography equipments) so they will seek my opinion before they actually make a purchase in Digital SLR camera. I have been repeatedly talking about what to consider when buying DSLR camera to my friends so I think it is high time now to compile my thoughts and opinions and pen them all down into this “Easy Step By Step Buying Guide” to share with everyone here. This Guide is mainly aimed for those newcomers or beginners who wanted to make their first purchase. Experts out there like you, won’t be needing this not so in-depth buying guide, don’t cha? So let’s get started.

Step 1 – Budget Your Purchase
Not long ago (almost come to 20 years … hahaha…), in my first lesson of Economy Class, my lecturer told me that ‘resources is finite but human needs is infinite’ so if money to you is not a problem, you can skip this step and advance to step 2 or even step 3. It is good to have a budget in mind when you are planning to buy something. Market is now flooded with different brands and models which makes it even tougher for us to decide. Furthermore, there is a high possibility of us being influenced by many of those not-so-accurate information from commercial advertisement.
So having a budget can actually narrow down your choice and you can concentrate on smaller scope in your search. Just to give you a rough guide, DSLR camera for entry level for beginner will cost around RM 2,000-00 whereas Mid Range for enthusiast will cost around RM 6000-00 and professional range always will cost more than RM 10,000-00.

Step 2 – Decide on Brand
I don’t want to start a brand war here by naming which brand is better than others or else I will be condemned and attacked by those brands die hard fans out there. As we all know, in the market now, just to name a few, we have brands like Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic, Pentax and Sony. To me, I really don’t have preference over any brand. My opinion is to follow the mainstream, that means go for major brand like Canon and Nikon and you won’t go wrong.
The reason behind is that both Canon and Nikon has an established camera system with wide variety range of lenses and accessories for your selection. Buying a camera is not just the camera alone, you need to own the complete camera system and accessories such as lenses, flashgun, tele-converter, remote control cord, etc. So, go for either these two brands as they are come with easily available original as well as third party lenses and accessories.
Anyway, of course it is still your choice to opt for other brands but don’t say I never warn you. Don’t listen to those ‘know nuts’ sales person (sorry but no offense) who tells you which brand of camera produces sharper or softer image or which brand has a higher saturated image, bla-bla-bla… People who tell you this practically have no or minimal knowledge in digital photography. Like it or not, when you venture into digital photography, you must at least learn some basic post processing skills eg. cropping, sharpening your image, increase saturation of your photo etc. by using Photoshop or other photo editing software. I will share with you some of the simple digital darkroom skills that I have learned, in my future post.

Step 3 – Choosing Which Model to Buy
By now, with your budget constraint and brand preference, you should be left with only a handful of choice. Congratulations! You are one step closer to own your first DSLR camera. Excited isn’t? Choosing which model to buy is rather complicated because different models come with different specifications, functions and features. DSLR camera is also a type of electronic gadget that’s why you should choose the latest model closest to your budget. That’s it, it’s just that simple. Latest model always come with latest technology and new functions as well as additional features and also it will last you at least one or two years before the replacement model comes in.
Nowadays, DSLR camera has the capability to capture high definition video but is this important to you? My DSLR camera able to capture video but I have never use this feature. The whole idea to buy a DSLR camera is for you to capture good and high quality photos, right? If you are interested in video, I would suggest you to buy a cheaper Video Camcorder which does a better job and is easier to operate compare to a DSLR camera.

Step 4 – Survey for Pricing After you have decided which model to buy, next question that pops up is, where to buy? For a start, I suggest you check the selling price online. Online camera shops like Shashinki, Yamiya or even Ebay provide us a guide in pricing but of course their price will always be higher. However if you happen to bump into one which is very low in price, do you dare to make your purchase online? With the information gathered online, you can now start your weekend shopping. Don’t go to those camera shops in shopping centers that cater for tourists (sorry, can’t name names here). I don’t think they can offer you any good deals. Just try your luck in Sungai Wang, Lowyat Plaza or Pertama Complex and nego for the best deal you want. Just don’t forget to get some freebies from them like UV filter for your lenses, memory card, screen protector, camera bag and cleaning tools. Don’t accept their cheapo tripod should they offer you. It is better to ask for a discount instead because the given tripod may be good for nothing.

Step 5 – Make Your Purchase
I can just stop at Step 4 because I believe adults like us will know what to do after this. I just added this Step 5 simply because I wanted to and because I just don’t like to stop at Step 4, don’t you get it?
Some of you may ask me, why have I not mention anything about mega pixel and size of the camera sensors, full frame or APS-C sensor, white balance control, sensor noise, sensitivity, dynamic range, etc. Should we consider all these before making our purchase? All these come with a price. Rule of thumb is, the higher the price of the camera, the better they are and this is true for most cases but of course not all the time. If you have no idea about what I have just mentioned, it simply means they are not important to you, right?

Very soon by now, you will be a happy man or woman lying at home comfortably on your sofa, playing your newly purchase gadget. Welcome to the world of rich man’s hobby, get ready to burn a big hole in your pocket and seeing red in your bank account book. Good luck!